Christmas

The classic is potato salad with fried carp or schnitzel, plus fish soup. Some tables have roast carp, turkey, or wine sausage. And of course a plate of cookies.

Keeping types — linzer, vanilla crescents, gingerbread — can be made three weeks ahead and only improve in the cold. Save delicate and creamy ones for the last days.

Buy carp that's been kept in a clean holding tank and have it portioned on the spot. At home, soak it in milk for a few hours — it mellows the flavor beautifully. Then just bread it and fry in hot oil until golden.

The day before — an overnight rest in the fridge is what makes it. Boil the potatoes in their skins so they hold their shape, and season again after resting: the salt and vinegar settle overnight.

Because of the mayo, two to three days in the fridge, well covered. Always scoop with a clean spoon. Making a big batch? Dress only part of it with mayo — it keeps longer without.

The most common stand-in is fried schnitzel, chicken or pork. Mushroom barley 'kuba' is an older tradition, and fried cheese works too. The potato salad stays on the table no matter what.