Stir and let it bubble away at a rolling boil for a few minutes. How do you know when to turn the heat down? The slightly sharp, sour smell of the wine will fade and turn into a pleasant aroma. You can also taste it – the liquid in the pot should taste pleasant, not sour.

A good amount of the wine will evaporate at this point, so you'll need more liquid for the long braise ahead. Add stock – I use whatever I have in the fridge, usually beef stock.

Now turn the heat down low so the mixture in the pot doesn't boil but braises very gently. Stir occasionally and let it simmer for several hours. The time needed depends not only on the temperature but also on the quality of the meat and the size of the cubes you cut.

After about an hour, I add tomatoes to the pot – they eventually break down completely, helping to thicken the ragù slightly and adding an interesting depth of flavour.

Just before finishing, I stir in fresh herbs – usually thyme, sage or parsley. Let it simmer with the herbs for at least another five minutes.

Serve with your favourite side. We used gnocchi, prepared simply by frying them in a pan. Finish with a sprinkle of grated Parmesan.