Take the beautifully risen buns out of the oven and preheat it to 200°C. Brush the buns with egg yolk again, sprinkle with seeds — poppy, flax or sesame — and a little salt. Pop them back into the oven and bake for about 15 minutes.

Wash the duck and pat it dry. Season with salt and pepper. Place it in a covered roasting dish and put it into the oven, preheated to 150°C. Then leave it to roast for 5 hours.

Uncover the duck and brush it with a mixture of honey, soy sauce and white wine. Turn the oven up to 220°C and roast for a further 30 minutes or so, until the duck develops a lovely crispy skin. Keep brushing it with the glaze while it finishes roasting.

Shred the roasted meat. Let the buns cool down and slice them in half.

Slice the onion into half-moons. Put it in a pan with a little oil and braise slowly for a long time, until nicely browned and soft — an hour is fine. I like to make a big batch of this onion and freeze it, so I just need to thaw and reheat it next time.

Once the onion is nicely browned, pour in the red wine. Turn up the heat and let the wine cook off. Season with salt and pepper.

Now it's time to put the burger together. Toast the halved bun on a grill or in a dry pan. Spread with tartare sauce, top with the shredded duck meat, a slice of gouda, the onions and lettuce, then cap it with the top half of the bun.

You can take the burger up a notch by frying up a rasher of bacon to add on top. And if you really want to be devilish, fry a fried egg to put on top as well.