Kitchen Cabinet Dimensions: The Ideal Measurements for Every Kitchen

Here are the standard dimensions for a kitchen — and everything else follows from these:

• Worktop height: 85–95 cm from the floor (over 100 cm for taller people).

• Base cabinet depth: 60 cm including the worktop (50–56 cm carcass plus the worktop overhang).

• Cabinet width: modules most commonly come in 15, 30, 45, 60 and 80 cm.

• Wall cabinet depth: 30–35 cm.

• Gap between worktop and wall cabinets: 55–60 cm.

• Base cabinet height: 72 cm carcass + 10–15 cm plinth + 3–4 cm worktop.

• Walkway between two rows: at least 90 cm, ideally 120 cm.

These figures aren't set in stone — they're tried-and-tested starting points that suit most households. But ergonomists all agree on one thing: measure to fit yourself, not a chart. A worktop that's just a few centimetres off the right height will make itself known in your back after just an hour at the stove.

The worktop should sit roughly 10–15 cm below your elbows when you're standing upright with your arms bent at 90 degrees. According to ergonomic guidelines, this is the most reliable way to get the height right: measure the distance from the floor to your elbow and subtract 10–15 cm.

As a rough guide, based on height:

• 155–170 cm tall: worktop 85–90 cm

• 170–185 cm tall: worktop 90–100 cm

• 185 cm and taller: worktop above 100 cm

A worktop that's too low forces you to hunch over the chopping board and strains your lower back; one that's too high pushes your shoulders up while cutting. If two people of quite different heights share the kitchen, you can meet in the middle by adjusting the plinth height — or set the sink a bit higher (since you bend more there) and the hob a bit lower, so you can see into your pans.

Base cabinets are typically 60 cm deep including the worktop, while wall cabinets are only 30–35 cm deep. That difference is deliberate: the deeper base units hold pots, appliances and food supplies, while the shallower wall cabinets keep your sightlines clear above the worktop and let you reach the back easily.

• Base cabinets: 50–56 cm carcass, 60 cm including the worktop overhang. Pull-out drawers and baskets make better use of the depth than doors with a fixed shelf — you can reach the back without kneeling.

• Wall cabinets: 30–35 cm deep, usually 70–90 cm tall. Shorter units work well above a cooker hood or fridge, while full-height cabinets up to the ceiling add storage for seasonal items.

• Module widths: 15–80 cm. A narrow pull-out cargo unit (15–20 cm) next to the hob is ideal for oils and spices.

Keep your appliances in mind from the very start: built-in ovens, dishwashers and fridges are typically designed for a 60 cm width and around 60 cm depth to sit flush with the cabinetry. Leave room for their doors to open, and for the fridge, room for ventilation too — otherwise it overheats and uses more energy.

Leave 55–60 cm between the worktop and the bottom edge of the wall cabinets. Less than 45 cm gets in the way while you're working and blocks your view, while more than 60 cm means you'll need a step stool to reach the top shelves.

Plan lighting and sockets alongside the dimensions, not as an afterthought:

• An LED strip under the wall cabinets lights the worktop from the front, so you're not working in your own shadow.

• Sockets should be planned in a band above the worktop (typically 110–120 cm from the floor), with enough circuits for all your appliances.

• Above the hob you need a cooker hood positioned roughly 65–75 cm above a gas hob, or around 65 cm for induction — always check the manufacturer's exact figure.

The three most important points in the kitchen — sink, hob and fridge — should form a triangle whose sides add up to roughly 4 to 7 metres in total. Each side should ideally be 1.2–2.7 m: close enough that you're not constantly walking back and forth, far enough apart that the three activities don't compete for space.

• Between the sink and the hob, leave at least 60 cm of worktop space — this is where drained pasta and hot pans land.

• Next to the hob, leave at least 30–40 cm so you have somewhere to set down a lid and room to turn a pan.

• The walkway between two rows of units, or between the units and an island, should be at least 90 cm for one person, or 120 cm if two people are working in the kitchen at once.

How to actually lay out these zones is a bigger topic in itself — we cover arranging them into an L-shape, U-shape, or a run with an island in our article on laying out a kitchen efficiently for maximum comfort.

Standard measurements are a starting point, not a rulebook — the best kitchen respects your height, your reach, and any specific needs. Start by identifying what you actually need, then adjust the measurements accordingly.

• Two cooks of different heights: find a compromise via the plinth height, or split the zones — sink a bit higher, hob a bit lower.

• Wheelchair users or seated cooking: a height-adjustable worktop (electric or hand-cranked) and base cabinets with knee clearance under the sink and hob.

• Shorter stature or limited reach: pull-out shelves and baskets instead of fixed ones, with the most-used items kept between hip and shoulder height. Save tall wall cabinets for things you only need a few times a year.

• Unusual layouts: modular systems let you combine widths in 15 cm increments to make use of alcoves and sloped walls.

In a small kitchen, it's how you use the height and the corners that matters, not the floor plan. When you can't go wider, go higher — and use cabinet depth cleverly.

• Corner cabinets: a rotating carousel or pull-out "blind corner" unit makes an otherwise dead corner usable.

• Go vertical, right up to the ceiling: shelves above the wall cabinets for seasonal or rarely used items, and the insides of cabinet doors for spices and cleaning supplies.

• Hang your cookware: a magnetic knife strip and hooks for pans free up drawer and worktop space.

• Foldaway elements: a wall-mounted drop-leaf table or a pull-out worktop only add space when you actually need it.

• Shallower base cabinets (40–50 cm) in a narrow kitchen widen the walkway without a major loss of functionality.

Before you start choosing cabinet doors, measure the room precisely — a measuring mistake only shows up during installation, when it's too late to fix. Get a tape measure, pencil, paper and spirit level ready, and work through it step by step:

1. Wall widths: measure each section separately, accounting for alcoves, columns and window reveals. Check that the individual segments add up to the total wall length.

2. Height: measure from floor to ceiling at several points — older flats often have sloping floors or ceilings, and your wall cabinets need to account for that.

3. Utility connections: mark the position of water, drainage, gas, electrics and ventilation ducting. These determine where the sink, hob and cooker hood can go.

4. Appliances and doors: add clearance for opening doors and pulling out drawers to your appliance dimensions, so nothing clashes with handles or an island.

The old tradesman's rule applies here too: measure twice, cut once. Ten extra minutes with a tape measure can save you an expensive surprise once the kitchen is finished.