Perilla

The Perilla frutescens species encompasses two primary cultigens with distinct culinary identities. Korean perilla (var. frutescens), called kkaennip or deulkkae, features large, broad, relatively flat leaves with mildly serrated edges and a bold, earthy flavor with hints of anise and mint. Japanese shiso (var. crispa) presents smaller, more pointed leaves with deeply serrated, frilly edges and a brighter, mintier taste. Shiso further divides into green shiso (aojiso), used fresh in salads and as garnish, and red shiso (akajiso), prized for its anthocyanin pigments that color pickled plums and beverages. Vietnamese perilla (tía tô) displays distinctive bicolored leaves—green on top, purple underneath—and accompanies bún noodle dishes, bánh xèo and grilled meats. Within each regional variety, numerous cultivars exist, selected over centuries for leaf size, color intensity, essential oil content, and seed yield.

Perilla's journey through human civilization stretches back over two millennia. The plant appears in early Chinese texts, and the Supplementary Records of Renowned Physicians (名醫別錄), compiled around 500 CE, records it as 'su' (蘇), a herb then valued in Chinese medicine. Archaeological evidence suggests cultivation in prehistoric Korea, with the plant becoming established on the Korean peninsula before the Unified Silla era (668–935 CE). Perilla seeds have been found at prehistoric Jōmon-period sites in Japan, and by the eighth to ninth centuries the plant was recorded there as a medicinal herb before its culinary uses flourished. The herb traveled westward in the mid-19th century, with red shiso reaching English gardening enthusiasts around 1855—where it was briefly fashionable before falling from favor by 1862. American introduction followed in the 1860s. Today, perilla remains a cornerstone of East Asian cuisines while having naturalized—sometimes invasively—across temperate regions worldwide.

Perilla's complex flavor chemistry stems from an extraordinary concentration of volatile compounds, primarily perillaldehyde, limonene, linalool, and various monoterpenes that create its characteristic minty-basil-anise bouquet. The leaves contain notable amounts of rosmarinic acid, a phenolic compound; the plant also has a long history in traditional Chinese medicine, where it was used for respiratory complaints. The purple pigmentation in red varieties comes from anthocyanins, the same water-soluble flavonoids that color blueberries and red cabbage, which shift hue based on pH—hence their effectiveness in coloring acidic preparations like pickled plums. Perhaps most remarkable is perilla seed oil, which contains 54-64% alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), one of the highest concentrations of this omega-3 fatty acid found in any plant source. The seeds also harbor gamma-tocopherol (vitamin E), phytosterols, and additional phenolic compounds. Heat transforms perilla's flavor, mellowing its raw vegetal bite while intensifying certain aromatic notes—a transformation driven by the volatilization and recombination of its essential oil components.

Perilla presents a complex environmental profile. In its native Asian range and traditional cultivation areas—Korea, Japan, China, India, and Vietnam—the plant is typically grown sustainably in home gardens and small farms, often intercropped with other vegetables, requiring minimal inputs beyond basic care. However, the species has become invasive in parts of the United States, particularly in the Southeast and Midwest, where it escaped cultivation and now forms dense stands that outcompete native vegetation. In Tennessee and Missouri, it is classified as a problematic weed and poses toxicity risks to grazing livestock, particularly cattle. When sourcing perilla, prioritize leaves from Asian grocery stores supplied by established agricultural regions, or grow your own in contained garden beds to prevent spread. Perilla seed oil production is concentrated in Korea and China, where traditional pressing methods yield high-quality oil; seek cold-pressed oil from reputable suppliers and keep it refrigerated, as its high ALA content makes it go rancid quickly.