Fresh Cilantro

While most markets carry standard cilantro (Coriandrum sativum), adventurous cooks should explore its aromatic cousins. Culantro (Eryngium foetidum), also called recao or sawtooth herb, offers similar flavor with greater heat stability and a more pungent punch. Vietnamese coriander (Persicaria odorata), known as rau ram, delivers a spicier, more peppery profile ideal for Southeast Asian dishes. Pápalo, used in Pueblan cuisine, provides an intensely herbaceous, almost wild flavor that defines authentic cemitas sandwiches.

Cilantro stands among humanity's oldest cultivated herbs, with archaeological evidence dating to the 6th millennium BCE at the Nahal Hemar cave in Israel. The Egyptians revered it as the "spice of happiness," believed to possess aphrodisiac properties, and placed coriander seeds in the tomb of Tutankhamun, where roughly half a litre of the fruits was recovered. Ancient Persians cultivated it 3,000 years ago, and Babylonian records list it among the herbs grown in royal gardens. The Hebrew Bible's Book of Exodus compares manna to white coriander seed. Greek physician Dioscorides documented its medicinal uses in "Materia Medica," while Roman gastronome Apicius featured it prominently in "De Re Coquinaria," the oldest surviving cookbook in Latin. Roman demand was so insatiable that coriander was imported from distant lands. Spanish conquistadors introduced the herb to the Americas, where it became inseparable from Mexican cuisine—today, no authentic salsa or guacamole is complete without its verdant presence.

Cilantro's divisive reputation stems from a fascinating intersection of chemistry and genetics. The herb's distinctive aroma derives from aldehydes—organic compounds also found in soaps and lotions—particularly (E)-2-decenal and decanal. A 2012 genome-wide association study identified a single nucleotide polymorphism (SNP) near the OR6A2 olfactory receptor gene on chromosome 11 that shifts the odds of these aldehydes registering as unpleasantly soapy rather than pleasantly citrusy, though it accounts for only about 0.5% of the variation between people. Depending on ancestry, roughly 3% to 21% of people report cilantro tasting soapy—about 21% of East Asian and 17% of European respondents, against 7% of South Asian, 4% of Hispanic and 3% of Middle Eastern ones. Intriguingly, populations where cilantro is a culinary staple—Central America, India, Southeast Asia—report the soapy taste far less often, though the study found that differences in the gene variant's frequency do not account for this, pointing instead to familiarity and culinary exposure. For those affected, crushing or bruising the leaves can help dissipate the offending aldehydes, potentially making the herb more palatable. The dried seeds (coriander) contain a different chemical profile dominated by linalool, explaining why they don't trigger the same aversion.

Most fresh cilantro sold in Europe is grown in Spain, Italy and Israel, with Morocco and Egypt filling the winter months and Dutch, German and Czech greenhouse and field crops adding to the summer supply. The herb's delicate nature and short shelf life mean it travels quickly from field to market, often within days of harvest. When possible, source from local farmers' markets during growing season to reduce transportation impact and support regional agriculture. Organic certification, marked by the EU organic leaf logo, ensures cultivation without synthetic pesticides—particularly relevant for an herb typically eaten raw. Home gardening is straightforward in temperate climates, though cilantro bolts quickly in heat; successive plantings every two to three weeks ensure continuous harvest.